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| FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS |
Here
are some frequently asked questions about the hospital service and their answers.
Click on the question button ( )
to be taken down the page to the answer.
Please
contact
me if I have not covered your query here. Note that any
prices given do NOT include return postage. |
| QUESTIONS | |
| How the Service Works | |
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I have a doll in need of repair, could you provide details of how I should send it to you and what is your address? |
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I have a rough idea, from your website, how much you would charge to repair my doll. What would be the return postage cost? |
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Before I send you an item for repair could you give me an idea of the likely cost? |
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How do I go about sending payment? Do I have to send any payment in advance or will you send an invoice when you know the actual costs? |
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I have a doll in need of repair but I am worried about losing him in the post, is it possible to deliver him to you? |
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How long would the repair to my doll take? |
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It might help if I email you a picture of my poor doll. What sort of file would you prefer? |
| Doll Limbs | |
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My favourite old plastic doll has got an arm that seems to be "withering" and drying out, is there any way of repairing this? |
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I have a doll which has "elastic bands" keeping its arms and legs on. These have stretched and broken. How much would this cost to repair? |
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I have a doll that has lost a leg, is there any chance of finding a near match? |
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My doll has some missing fingers, can these be replaced? |
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My doll is made of hard plastic and it is badly cracked in places and the top of the leg is broken, can this be fixed? |
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I have a Tiny Tears doll who's arm has broken off. It seems that a small plastic pin holding the arm on has sheared. Is this repairable? |
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The arm and leg sockets on my doll are falling to pieces, is there anything that can be done? |
| Doll Hair | |
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Can you please advise how I can go about getting the wig replaced on an old doll? |
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Can I get the rooted hair replaced on my old doll? |
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I have a porcelain doll who's hair is in good shape but it is knotted and tangled, can you help? |
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I have a plastic doll who's hair is in good shape but it is knotted and tangled, can you help? |
| Doll Heads | |
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My doll has lost her eyelashes, can you replace them? |
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My doll has lost one of her eyes, can you replace it? |
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My doll's eyes are stuck and don't open and close any more, can you fix this for me? |
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My doll's porcelain head has been smashed into many pieces, can something like that be fixed? |
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I have a walky-talky doll whose head has come off, leaving a bent metal rod coming out of the neck. Could you fix the head back on? |
| Doll Bodies | |
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My doll used to say "Mama" but this no longer works, can it be repaired? |
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I have a doll that has a pull cord that you pull out of the back and she speaks. This does not work, can you help? |
| Doll - General | |
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Can you repair damage to soft rubbery plastic dolls? |
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Can you supply replacement body parts or limbs for dolls? |
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My daughter has drawn on the face of her doll with ball-point and felt-tip pens. I have tried everything to remove the stains, can you help? |
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My doll needs new clothes, can you make them? |
| Teddy Limbs | |
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My Teddy bear's jointed limbs are very loose, can they be tightened? |
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Our Teddy has got fabric pads on his paws and feet. They have become so worn that the stuffing is coming out. Could you replace these? |
| Teddy Fur | |
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My Teddy bear is very threadbare in places, is it possible to replace his fur? |
| Teddy Heads | |
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I have an old teddy bear who is literary losing his head. How much approximately would it cost to repair him? |
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My Teddy bear needs new eyes, nose and mouth. Can you do this? |
| Teddy Bodies | |
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My Teddy has lost some of his stuffing and has gone all limp - can you replace this for him? |
| Teddy - General | |
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My Teddy used to growl, can you mend his voice? |
| Toys | |
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My daughter has a loved-to-bits rag doll that is beyond repair, is it possible to make an identical copy? |
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My daughter's rag doll has a body that is frayed and split and the stuffing is coming out, can you help? |
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| ANSWERS | |
| How the Service Works | |
| I have a doll in need of repair, could you provide details of how I should send it to you and what is your address? | |
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Waiting List |
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Packaging |
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| If the doll or teddy is in pieces and you want it re-assembled it would be really helpful if you could put it in a box that was big enough to hold the re-assembled body. | |
| Don't forget to include contact information, e.g. telephone number and/or email address and a wish list of what you would like repaired and, if your list includes clothes and/or wig, colour choices. | |
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Means
of Postage Special Delivery is I believe the quickest and most reliable method of sending valuable parcels and also allows confirmation of delivery, which is guaranteed next working day by 12 noon (mainland UK). Basic compensation for loss is available and enhanced compensation can be purchased. Visit www.royalmail.co.uk for pricing details and to confirm delivery. |
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| Recorded Delivery provides added reassurance for important items by allowing confirmation of delivery. Maximum compensation for loss is 100 times the cost of a first class stamp per parcel. Visit www.royalmail.co.uk for pricing details and to confirm delivery. | |
| Standard Parcel Service compensation will NOT be paid for damage to item such as glass, china, porcelain or antiques. Fragile labels do NOT affect the way the parcel is handled. This is the cheapest means of sending parcels, the aim is to deliver parcels within 3 to 5 working days of delivery, but is not recommended for anything fragile. Basic compensation for loss of items covered is available and enhanced compensation can be purchased but this will not cover damage to fragile items. Visit www.royalmail.co.uk for pricing details. | |
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My address is:- Hilary Brown Crafts Unlimited (UK) 5 Scratton Road Stanford-Le-Hope Essex, SS17 0NZ UK See Delivery Suggestions for more information. |
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| I have a rough idea, from your website, how much you would charge to repair my doll. What would be the return postage cost? | |
| I do not charge extra for return postage, it is at "cost". The postage depends on the weight of the doll and its packaging and how you send it to me - I would send it back to you by the same method. | |
| Before I send you an item for repair could you give me an idea of the likely cost? | |
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Before I can give you a rough idea
of cost (and please remember this does NOT include return postage - at cost)
you need to give me enough information about the item to be repaired and
what needs doing or what you would like done - such as:- 1. The rough height of the item (how tall is the doll, teddy etc). 2. If it is a doll, is it porcelain, composite, soft plastic, hard plastic, soft (fabric body) or a mixture (please describe). 3. If it is a soft toy, what is it made from - fleece, acrylic fur, mohair, stretch jersey, towelling etc. 4. If it is a soft toy, has it just split seams and missing stuffing OR are there areas that need patching OR (last resort) is a new skin required. Or indeed does it need to be cloned. 5. If it is a soft toy, are the nose and eyes OK. 6. Does it need a squeaker, growler or mama. 7. If it is not a soft toy, what needs repairing - restringing, socket repairs, eye repairs, eyelashes, wig, head or body damage etc. 8. Or does it just need a wash and brush up. 9. If possible, a picture of the item (by email) showing the damage would be extremely useful (image type?) |
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| How do I go about sending payment? Do I have to send any payment in advance or will you send an invoice when you know the actual costs? | |
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There are three options:- 1. If we have agreed on the exact cost of the repair, and you know what the return postage will be, you can include a cheque with the patient. 2. You can send the patient and I will contact you after a check-over and tell you what can be done and the exact cost. Of course, by then, we will know the return postage cost so you can send a cheque at that time and as soon as the patient is ready to come home I will email you and post it back. 3. You can wait until the repair is finished and then I will email a picture for approval. If everything is OK you can send a cheque then, and I will send the patient back. Cheques should be made payable to either Hilary Brown or to Crafts Unlimited. I am afraid that I cannot send a repair back until it has been paid for. |
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| I have a doll in need of repair but I am worried about losing him in the post, is it possible to deliver him to you? | |
| Since I work from home the "opening hours" are more flexible. I am always happy to take a patient by hand delivery but it is wise to call first to make sure that I am here. However, remember that you will need to take your turn first on the waiting list. | |
| How long would the repair to my doll take? | |
| I usually estimate 4 weeks (from the item's delivery to me until I send it back), however there are times when this is extended due to an influx of patients (see the Hospital front page). Also if I have to order wigs, eyes, shoes etc then I am at the mercy of my suppliers and it might take a little longer. If it is a treasured toy of a child that has to be wrenched from their grasp then it is a good idea to warn me of this beforehand. In this case I will contact you when there is a lull in work and I will do my best to return it as quickly as possible. | |
| It might help if I email you a picture of my poor doll. What sort of file would you prefer? | |
| The best way is to send me a JPEG file ( .jpg ). These are compressed and so the size will be small. Also it is a good idea, if most of the picture is background, to cut the picture down to just the area containing your doll (you can crop pictures, and save them out as JPEG files, in most graphic programs, Corel Draw, Paint Shop Pro etc). A good maximum size is a picture of about 500 pixels high. Some people send me HUGE bitmap ( .bmp ) pictures with their tiny doll in the middle. These not only take ages to download but also ages for you to send. | |
| Doll Limbs | |
| My favourite old plastic doll has got an arm that seems to be "withering" and drying out, is there any way of repairing this? | |
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This may be the sign of the dreaded
Hard Plastic Disease or Plastic Doll Disease. After the second world war the plastic used in doll
production was not always stable. The warning signs are a very strong
smell of vinegar, the wrists go white and split
(example)
and the arms discolour, wither and
shrink and give the appearance of being dry and brittle
(example).
There are many tell-tale signs in the head. The face often discolours
and can show a faintly powdered surface, the nose can shrink inwards and
begin to disintegrate, the head can distort and become more pointed at the
top
(example)
and the head itself can split, often at the neck
(example).
In severe cases the body itself can distort and split
(example). If you can
catch the disease in its early stages it is worth treating - see example.
"Doll Magazine" had an excellent article about this disease in Issue 43 - May 2001 and they suggest treating the doll in the following way. Unstring the doll and wash it in an antiseptic wash, something like Oxy10. Let the doll dry completely for at least 2 or 3 days. Talcum powder the doll inside and out (keep the talcum powder away from any eye mechanisms) and leave for another 2 or 3 days. Remove the excess talc and spray the doll with a matt varnish inside and out. This SHOULD hold back the disease but, to be safe, the doll should stay in isolation (away from other dolls) to prevent any danger of transmitting it to healthy dolls. "Doll Magazine" has kindly given me permission to reproduce the article here (284Kb). |
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| I have a doll which has "elastic bands" keeping its arms and legs on. These have stretched and broken. How much would this cost to repair? | |
| Your doll needs re-stringing, which is a silly term for needing new elastic. See prices for the cost of a standard or multi-jointed restring. | |
| I have a doll that has lost a leg, is there any chance of finding a near match? | |
| This is very unlikely. Manufacturers, even if they still exist, are unwilling to supply replacements. The best thing to do is to scour local charity shops and boot sales for an old doll that you may be able to cannibalise, however you will be extremely lucky to find an exact match. The best that can be hoped for is a near match and the hope that clothes will make the difference less noticeable. I considered collecting doll bits myself but the chance of having the right size, style and colour is very negligible and would therefore be uneconomic (apart from the storage space required). I have made a replacement leg from fabric which looked ok (when covered with clothes) but obviously it feels very different (example). See prices for costs. | |
| My doll has some missing fingers, can these be replaced? | |
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We have been very successful in
replacing fingers for hard plastic and composite dolls, but you must
be aware that there will need to be some repainting involved. It is
often difficult to match exactly the paint of a hand and in these cases it
is often necessary to paint the whole hand up to the wrist to blend in the
repair. See prices
for costs.
Replacement of fingers on soft plastic dolls is extremely difficult and often impossible due to the absence of materials which will reliably stick to these types of plastic. Replacement of fingers on porcelain dolls also poses problems if the hands themselves are porcelain (often just the head is porcelain and the body and limbs are a composite material). Drilling porcelain hands to provide adequate support for finger replacement has proved almost impossible without expensive diamond-tipped drills which blunt quickly. Fingers can be moulded and attached but the joint is not nearly as strong as the original. |
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| My doll is made of hard plastic and it is badly cracked in places and the top of the leg is broken, can this be fixed? | |
| Hard plastic limbs can be repaired (and missing pieces reformed) but usually have to be repainted to disguise the repair. Whilst I make every effort to obtain as near a paint match as possible, there may be a noticeable, but slight, difference in colour and finish. The cost of repair to a broken limb depends on the amount of damage - see prices. | |
| I have a Tiny Tears doll who's arm has broken off. It seems that a small plastic pin holding the arm on has sheared. Is this repairable? | |
| These very flexible joints are rather unusual, the joint is held together with a plastic pin with a ball on the end (example). It is impossible to get replacement parts for these, but we have been successful in either repairing the break between the parts with a metal pin or, if the pin is not repairable, making something that is a near approximation of the device. In the latter case you may (not always) notice a slight difference in the feel of the joint. See prices for repair costs. | |
| The arm and leg sockets on my doll are falling to pieces, is there anything that can be done? | |
| Limb sockets on all types of dolls apart from rubbery plastic ones and thin waxy ones (example) are repairable. Some repainting is usually necessary to disguise the repair but unless the damage has extended into the body of the doll, repainting can normally be restricted to the joint area and is not intrusive. See prices for repair costs. | |
| Doll Hair | |
| Can you please advise how I can go about getting the wig replaced on an old doll? | |
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If your doll is a plastic,
porcelain or composite doll that had a wig stuck to the top of its head (or
of you want to fix a wig to a plastic doll with "molded" hair) then
this is not a problem. The wigs are supplied by many doll shops and
all you need to know is the circumference of the doll's head and the colour
and style of the wig that you would like. See prices
for the cost of the various types
of wigs. If you want me to do this for you then all you have to do is send me the doll and tell me the type, colour and style of hair that you would like and I would do my best to comply with your wishes. Obviously the above costs would be increased by the cost of return postage. However, this is something that you can do yourself very easily and a quick search on the internet for doll's wigs should give you a list of suppliers. Also check out the Hospital Links page or mail order companies that can supply wigs or check doll's magazines for a local stockist. |
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| Can I get the rooted hair replaced on my old doll? | |
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I am afraid that I cannot replace
individually rooted tufts of hair and I know of nobody willing to take on this long laborious
task for you,
the hair is usually rooted during manufacture with specialist machines.
However I have had contact with someone who managed to repair her doll using 'CURLY HAIR', tight little corkscrews of hair from Hobbycraft (http://www.hobbycraft.co.uk). Apparently it was ok after the doll's hair was washed and conditioned in very hot water and combed until it was smooth and wavy. Also, Dainty Supplies (www.daintysupplies.co.uk) sell CURLY CRAFT HAIR which you are supposed to be able to use for re-rooting vinyl heads, although I don't know the techniques. My contact gave me the address of a clear and informative description of the process for a Barbie doll which was similar to the process she used. Have a look at http://hometown.aol.com/pk5096/TheHuntCollectionPage4.html. |
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| I have a porcelain doll who's hair is in good shape but it is knotted and tangled, can you help? | |
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I would be happy to help, but my
course of action is something you could try first. First of all you have to take the
wig off of the doll. It is easiest to start at the back of the head. Peal the wig upwards towards the crown of the head gently easing any glued sections away from the porcelain head. When you have removed the wig mix up some warm (not too hot) water with a gentle washing liquid like Woolite or Stergene. Holding the wig by the fabric base, swish the hair around in the warm soapy water, gently squeezing the soap into the hair to get rid of any dirt etc. When you have finished washing the wig then rinse it in clean warm water. At this stage I have found that fabric conditioner - preferably an easy-iron type, the sort made by Comfort and Lenor - gently worked into the hair makes life a lot easier. At this stage you can use a large toothed comb - afro type or something similar - to carefully comb the hair but do not pull it because you will pull it out of the wig. When you have combed out all of the tangles then, standing outside in the garden, hold the wig by the fabric base, swing it backwards and forwards - this will get rid of most of the excess moisture. Give it another gentle comb, style it if you want to, and then leave it over an upside-down tumbler in a warm place to dry off slowly. The use of a hair dryer or heated rollers may damage the hair. When the wig is dry you can stick it back onto the porcelain head. I usually use UHU glue to fix wigs in place. |
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| I have a plastic doll who's hair is in good shape but it is knotted and tangled, can you help? | |
| I would be happy to help, but my course of action is something you could try first. I know that hair gets tangled and, in the past, I have found the best solution has been hair conditioner. I start off with a shampoo which contains a conditioner - like Pantene - and I use a separate conditioner as well. I then use a large toothed comb, like an afro comb, to smooth the hair down. Sometimes this is not good enough so I use a fabric conditioner. Let it dry naturally, the use of a hair dryer or heated rollers may damage the hair. If this does not work (it usually does) then the only alternative is a wig after shaving off all the hair. It is very drastic but sometimes there is no other course of action. | |
| Doll Heads | |
| My doll has lost her eyelashes, can you replace them? | |
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Yes, but what can be done depends
on the type of doll. Individual eyes in plastic sockets (they can be
opened and closed individually) in plastic dolls cannot be repaired, I can
only replace the eyes. It is almost impossible to match old eyes
exactly so it is invariably necessary to replace both eyes (example).
However, easy (and correct) fixing assumes that the back of the eye socket
has not been cut (more information).
Please note that we CANNOT replace eyes in Chicco dolls or First Love dolls.
If the eyes are locked together then they are part of a mechanism inside the head that can be removed and eyelashes fitted. This assumes the mechanism can be easily removed, in some dolls it can be extremely difficult, if not impossible to get inside the head and remove the mechanism. See prices for repair costs. |
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| My doll has lost one of her eyes, can you replace it? | |
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Probably, but it all depends
on the type of doll and the type of eyes. All eyes are replaced as a
pair because of the impossibility of matching old eyes. Porcelain
dolls can have either fixed or rocking eyes - see
example. Soft plastic dolls have individual eyes in plastic sockets. Individual eyes (you can open or close them individually, they are not locked together) can only be replaced, not repaired, and are replaced as a pair - see example. However, easy (and correct) fixing assumes that the back of the eye socket has not been cut (more information). Please note that we CANNOT replace eyes in Chicco dolls or First Love dolls or dolls that have a voice box inside their head. Composite dolls usually have an eye mechanism, like some hard plastic dolls. These tend to rust up and seize, or are broken by enthusiastic children. It is impossible to get spare parts for these and so it is necessary to make parts where possible - this is difficult to do with the eyeballs although I do carry a few "spares" obtained from old dolls in the past. The cost depends on how easy it is to remove the mechanism, whether new eyelashes are required, whether the eyelids need repainting or whether repairs/replacement parts are needed. This assumes the mechanism can be easily removed, in some dolls it can be extremely difficult, if not impossible to get inside the head and remove the mechanism. See prices for repair costs. |
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| My doll's eyes are stuck and don't open and close any more, can you fix this for me? | |
| See the answer to the above question. | |
| My doll's porcelain head has been smashed into many pieces, can something like that be fixed? | |
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This is not an easy repair and is
only possible if the centre portion of the face (containing the features)
remain.
It takes a lot of time to reassemble all the pieces, fill in the gaps caused
by the tiny pieces and little slithers that get lost, strengthen it from the
inside, resurface it on the outside and then repaint it. Obviously I
will do my very best but the repairs may not be invisible and may change the
look of the doll slightly (example).
It is very difficult to give an estimate for something like this without seeing the state of the doll, see prices for a guide. If you want to send the doll to me I will happily look at it and give you a firmer quote before doing anything. |
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| I have a walky-talky doll whose head has come off, leaving a bent metal rod coming out of the neck. Could you fix the head back on? | |
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This is possible as long as the
bent metal rod can be removed from the doll. The repair involves
fixing a new plastic tube inside the head into which the rod fixes.
This cannot be done with any degree of certainty unless the rod is removed
and can be viewed inside the head during repair. Sometimes this bar is
riveted together and these can be drilled out and re-fixed after the
repair. It is also often possible to saw the bar in two through the
arm sockets and re-join it after the repair.
As long as the bar can be removed then the repair is possible and will cost between £5 and £10 depending on how much work is involved in the bar removal/refitting. |
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| Doll Bodies | |
| My doll used to say "Mama" but this no longer works, can it be repaired? | |
| The "mama" is a cylindrical unit inside the back of the doll. As long as the old one can be removed then a new one can be fitted. Most dolls have an access panel on their back which allows easy removal/replacement of the mama, however, some dolls have mamas fitted during manufacture before the two halves of the body are welded together (example). Unless you are lucky and the mama can be withdrawn through the leg socket then I am afraid that this type cannot be replaced. See prices for repair costs. | |
| I have a doll that has a pull cord that you pull out of the back and she speaks. This does not work, can you help? | |
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It may be possible to repair.
It is impossible to get spare parts (apart from some spare drive belts which
I have imported from America) and
so it all depends on what has broken. It usually is the drive belt but
it can also be the main spring or the record itself can be worn beyond
use. It also depends whether the unit can be removed from the
doll. Older dolls had their bodies screwed together so the voice box
could be removed. However, some more recent
dolls are welded together with the voice box inside. The only access
here is to split the seam surrounding the doll and I am resistant to do this when repair
of the voice box is not certain.
However, if you want the unit repaired and the doll needs splitting apart then you need to be happy with me doing that and the fact that the seam repair may not be invisible. I have successfully repaired a voice box where I had to split the doll in two and it went very well and the seam looked acceptable when I had finished. I cannot make any promises, failure would be no charge (apart from return postage) if the doll was screwed together. There would be a charge for failure if I have to cut the doll in half and then re-glue it. This is a dangerous procedure which I do not undertake lightly. So if you want to send it to me I would be happy to have a go. I have seen some dolls that have had a voice box inside a soft vinyl head. I have been unable to get these out of the head (without destroying the head) so I cannot repair voice boxes installed in this manner. Voice boxes in soft toys may also be repaired but there will usually be an extra charge to open up and then re-close the toy. See prices for repair costs. |
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| Doll - General | |
| Can you repair damage to soft rubbery plastic dolls? | |
| I can restring soft rubbery plastic dolls and also (as long as I can get to them) replace the eyes. However, it is impossible to make repairs to broken, torn or missing parts such as fingers, limbs, bodies etc and also to thin waxy dolls (example). The soft plastic defeats most repair materials and paint. | |
| Can you supply replacement body parts or limbs for dolls? | |
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I am afraid that this is not
possible. New replacement body and limb parts for dolls are impossible
to find and, due to the huge variation in size, shape and colour it would be
impossible for me to hold a meaningful stock even if they were easy to find.
I can only suggest looking in second-hand shops, charity shops or boot-sales to try and find a donor doll who could supply the missing part. |
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| My daughter has drawn on the face of her doll with ball-point and felt-tip pens. I have tried everything to remove the stains, can you help? | |
| If the face is made of cloth then the answer is to replace it with a new face, which would be between £10 and £15. If the head is plastic then I am afraid this is a difficult problem. I was recently asked the same thing by a chemist and his wife (who had a degree in physics) and they had come up with no solution to the marked plastic face of a doll. Although cream cleaners and "Stain Devils" cleaners took some of the stain away, there was always a deep stubborn stain in the plastic that could not be removed. | |
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| Jenny Barritt wrote to say she had used an acne cream with a peroxide base on a soft plastic, baby born type doll marked by a felt tip pen. She rubbed it on the stain then washed it off and after only 3 applications the stain had disappeared. She reported that it seemed to continue working even after it had been washed off. | |
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Pat Bonner from Australia
recently kindly passed on the tip that Oxy10 (invisible acne cream) can work
wonders on felt-tip pen stains, apply and leave. It takes about 4 to 7
applications to reduce the stain. This may work differently on
different types of plastic so be very careful. It would be best to try
it on an unseen bit of body first just in case it bleaches the colour. When I did it I applied it for about an hour then washed it off and dried it thoroughly but the stain was still there. I applied the cream again and left it for 4 hours this time, washed and dried it and it was definitely fainter so I did one more application this time leaving it for 24 hours, when I washed it the stain had gone and it was perfect. I've used it on a Tiny Tears, an ordinary vinyl doll and a white vinyl unicorn and it has worked perfectly every time. |
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A Tiny Tears arrived in the Hospital that had been wrapped in a brightly coloured plastic bag in transit and by the time it got here it looked permanently badly tattooed. No amount of cream cleaner would shift the marks. I applied Oxy10 cream and left it for a day and then rinsed it off, used a cream cleaner, rinsed that off and then left some more Oxy10 cream on for another day, The treatment worked brilliantly and all the purple tattoos disappeared completely. So this treatment took 48 hours. If your local chemist is anything like mine you will get a lot of sarcastic comments referring to "you must be past the acne and zit stage by now" but you can shut them up by saying "its for a doll" and walking out quickly. |
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| Patricia Seehaver wrote to tell me - I use an acne cream such as Clearasil on vinyl dolls but I put it by a light which aids in drying time - 8 to 10 inches away from the bulb depending on the doll. I allow the Clearasil to dry between applications and remove the old before adding more. Ink is gone many times with one application, marker might take more than one application but lightens with each application. This does not appear to hurt the vinyl or even face paint but removes the unwanted stain. | |
| My doll needs new clothes, can you make them? | |
| I am a trained dressmaker and I used to work at the Royal Opera House making the theatrical costumes. Many people have asked me to make clothes for their dolls and I make whatever they ask for, but I must admit that I do prefer making historically correct clothes. I can supply illustrations of Victorian doll's clothes which are historically correct for French and German dolls. All you have to do is ask. The cost of a simple outfit, dress petticoat and knickers depends on the materials requested (examples). Shoes and socks would be extra, costs here depend on shoe size, style etc. See prices for costs. | |
| Teddy Limbs | |
| My Teddy bear's jointed limbs are very loose, can they be tightened? | |
| The older joints are usually wooden or hardboard washers held together with a metal cotter pin. Over the years this cotter pin bends and breaks and so do the wooden washers. Whilst the Teddy is receiving surgery and seams are open and stuffing temporarily removed (for access) it is usually a good idea to replace all of them to save the postal costs of a return visit (example). See prices for repair costs. | |
| Our Teddy has got fabric pads on his paws and feet. They have become so worn that the stuffing is coming out. Could you replace these? | |
| Yes, see prices for the repair cost to replace all four pads and paws. I will do my best to match the original colour using velvet or a suede-type cloth (example). | |
| Teddy Fur | |
| My Teddy bear is very threadbare in places, is it possible to replace his fur? | |
| Fur replacement on a Teddy is a problem. Once the fur has gone there is not a lot that can be done apart from making a total new "skin" (therefore he would not look the same) because to match the "aged" fur (in terms of quality, fur length and colour) would be almost impossible. Even humans lose their hair as they get older as do well loved Teddies!. The only thing I can suggest is to give him a waistcoat or jacket to cover the bear (oops sorry, bare) patches. A waistcoat or jacket is available in your choice of colour - usually velvet with satin lining. See prices for costs. | |
| Teddy Heads | |
| I have an old teddy bear who is literary losing his head. How much approximately would it cost to repair him? | |
|
It all depends on what you mean by "losing his head". If it is just a question of the head joint coming apart then it would just entail undoing the seam in the back of the body and the head and tightening up or replacing the swivel joint (example).
See prices
for
repair costs, and if it needed a little extra stuffing around that joint area I would do it at no extra cost. If however, the fabric is giving way or the damage is more extensive requiring patching etc then the cost might be a little more. If you send him to me I would have a look at him and confirm the cost with you before proceeding. |
|
| My Teddy bear needs new eyes, nose and mouth. Can you do this? | |
|
Poor teddy. If it is just
nose and mouth then the cost of repair would be £5. Replacement plastic safety eyes would cost £5. I have a page on the repair section of the web site which
illustrates the different styles of
eyes and
noses.
Most teddies of that era - mine dates from 1949 - had stitched noses. My
teddies' nose is satin, stitched with a black thread. You can choose which
you think would look best, or is nearest to the original nose.
I have a very limited supply of glass teddy eyes. I am willing to fit these into teddies if you specifically request, but you must confirm that it is not a child's teddy since these eyes contravene all the EEC safety regulations for children's toys and can only be fitted to collectors teddies. See prices for costs. |
|
| Teddy Bodies | |
| My Teddy has lost some of his stuffing and has gone all limp - can you replace this for him? | |
| Most old teddies are stuffed with wood shavings and over the years this breaks down and becomes less "bouncy". Sometimes seams can come undone and the stuffing falls out. Whether it is wood shavings, kapok, foam chips, polyester stuffing or plastic beans, I can replace it (example). The cost depends on the type and amount of stuffing required, the size of the bear and whether any repair work is required to seams etc. Note that I will NOT replace foam chips - they break down over time to an orange dust which can then turn into a sticky mess depending on the type of foam. | |
| Teddy - General | |
| My Teddy used to growl, can you mend his voice? | |
| The "growler" is a cylindrical unit inside the back of the teddy, these cannot be repaired. I can fit a new one for you, by opening up the back seam. There are two different sizes and they make different sounds, check them out on my website (Internet Explorer only - sorry) to see which is the nearest to your teddies original voice. See prices for costs. | |
| Toys | |
| My daughter has a loved-to-bits rag doll that is beyond repair, is it possible to make an identical copy? | |
| Yes. Unfortunately fabric fashions change so I may not be able to get an exact match but I will do my best to get as near as possible unless you fancy changing the doll's outfit (example). Prices vary with size and complexity. | |
| My daughter's rag doll has a body that is frayed and split and the stuffing is coming out, can you help? | |
| Yes it is possible to make a new body only and sew it in place over the top of the old one. See prices for repair costs. | |
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